The information provided below was taken from several books and reports about leather. It is provided to help our customers make a very good and informed purchase decision, with confidence.
There is alot of misinformation in circulation, some is due to misconceptions that are passed along as facts and some is deliberate to mislead consumers. Here we breakdown some basics about leather creation.
Leather tanning is the process of converting raw hides or skins into leather. Hides and skins have the ability to absorb tannic acid and other chemical substances that prevent them from decaying, make them resistant to wetting, and keep them supple and durable.
The surface of hides and skins contains the hair and oil glands and is known as the grain side. The flesh side of the hide or skin is much thicker and softer. The three types of hides and skins most often used in leather manufacture are from cattle (cows), sheep and pigs.
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Real leather is composed of many microscopic fibers which are inter-linked. When leather is used, it bends and the fibers bend and rub against each other. When it was alive and connected to the oil ducts of the animal, the fibers were all naturally lubricated.
During tanning, the oils are first extracted, then later replaced with other oils (usually called "fat liquors.") Once the leather has been tanned, these oils will eventually dissipate (faster in hot weather and exposed to the sun). At this point oils must be reapplied to the leather or the fibers will start cutting into each other as the leather bends and flexes; cut fibers result in cracks in the leather.
Once leather develops cracks, the cracks cannot be repaired, although further cracking can be prevented by applying oil or conditioners to the leather. Silicone waterproofing is only a surface coat and will not properly lubricate the leather fibers. Silicone can prevent oils from entering and lubricating leather so is only a quick fix for water-proofing.
Using a natural oil is very good although it will darken most leathers. A general purpose leather lotion or even hand lotion will replenish fiber lubrication and some will not darken the leather except temporarily.
Cowhide is the most common leather used in the making of garments, furniture and leather goods. Cowhide as a category covers a wide spectrum of textures and quality, but generally, it is quite durable, easy to care for and resistant to water and dirt.
Cowhide leather will maintain its integrity, taking on the shape of the wearer, making it more comfortable with everyday use. This affordable, functional leather offers fashion, value and endless colors and style.
The best leather is full grain leather. The reason it is best is because it is the strongest part of the leather. At the top of the skin, or epidermis level, fibers are tighter together and hence stronger. In order to be considered "full grain leather" the leather cannot have been buffed or sanded on the top.
Therefore, at the surface the leather fibers are most closely inter linked, and hence strongest. When any of these fibers are buffed (sanded) in order to reduce the number of apparent blemishes, leather's natural strength diminishes.
Timot uses full grain leather for making all of its leather goods. We do not use Milled Leather. Milled leather is NOT strong enough for motorcycle apparel because the surface has been buffed, sanded and the grain pattern has been stamped into the leather, i.e. pig leather with a cow grain pattern stamped onto it. It is not strong because the upper most level of the epidermis has been removed and it is not necessarily cowhide.
Only the best (least damaged) skins can be used for making full grain leather. The more natural the dye and top coatings, the more transparent they are. These transparent dyes are usually aniline. Only a small percentage of skins can be used to produce an aniline dyed full grain leather.
Full grain leather may be hot plated or not, the plating (done with a large metal plate which has usually been etched to look like a perfect full grain leather) being added to hide some of the natural defects in leather.
The properties of leather vary considerably depending upon the type and quality of both the skins and tanning process. Every piece of leather has individual markings which relate to its origins and add character to each skin.
Like a fine wine, a good quality leather garment should improve with age. The natural elasticity of each hide means it is flexible and will stretch and return to its original shape. Leather also has a natural tendency to repel liquids and resist staining. It's also fire resistant, and emits no toxic fumes, even when exposed to intense heat.
Relative to virtually all man-made textiles, leather is very strong and has a high resistance level to tears and punctures. The comfort provided by most leather goods is due in part to leather's ability to combine breathing and insulating properties. You may have heard... "Leather is hot in summer and cold in winter." In reality, leather adjusts constantly to its environment. Because it is a natural product, leather "breathes" freely, maintaining a comfort level in all seasons.
What Is the Difference Between Top Grain and Full Grain Leather? <Back to Contents>
Top grain leather is full grain leather that has usually been buffed and has originated from the top of the skin.
However, not all top grain leather is full grain leather. Most top grain leather will be buffed then hot stamped with an enormous metal plate.
The finest leathers do not need to be plated, but are rare in a world of bugs, barbs, bumps, bruises and brands. It is expensive to raise animals in an environment that reduces the possibilities for injuries. Not many farms that raise cattle provide a flat plain with insect control, barbless fences, and soft foliage due to the high cost.
The buffing process involves sanding off the surface blemishes. Therefore, in this process the leather is weakened because most of the tightest leather fibers are removed.
The cheapest grades of "genuine leather" usually use the cheapest hides (such as pigskin) to replicate cowhide (it can still legally be called "genuine leather.") The best tanneries produce excellent top grain leathers because they only lightly snuff the leather and use top quality finishes and processes to duplicate the look of full grain leather. Often a smooth metal plate or hair cell metal plate is applied with heat and pressure to "kiss plate" the leather, or iron out wrinkles and some irregularities and provide a higher yield of cutting.
We use an Aniline and Semi-Aniline Leather Dye Processes so that the color cannot be scratched to reveal a natural color beneath the surface. If we only pigmented the surface as is true with many leather products, even the smallest of scratches would show very easily.
Aniline Leather is tumbled in vats so the dye is completely absorbed by the skin. There is no other coloring agents or process, thus the finished leather tends to look and feel more "natural" - the unique markings and character of each skin are apparent. By way of analogy, this treatment is akin to the "staining" of wood.
Usually, the best quality hides are reserved for this process, as aniline leathers are valued highest by consumers.
Semi-Aniline Leathers which are a combination of both pigmented and aniline dyed; a very light pigment is added to even out the co lour and increase the durability. Most garments are made with semi-aniline leathers.
Some hides are sliced to a uniform thickness on precision machines.The lower portions or splits are weaker, due to the elongated cell structure.
Splits are subject to stretching and therefore provide an unstable base, which results in cracking of the finishes. These are not fit for use where strength and durability are necessary.
Corrected Grain Leather is leather whose natural surface texture has been altered.
Milled Leather is leather that has been sanded, buffed and had a grain pattern stamped onto it, i.e. "pig skin with a cowhide pattern", it is therefore not good for motorcycle apparel because the upper most level of the epidermis (skin) has been removed and it is not necessarily cowhide.
Drum-dyed is a dyeing process in which leather is immersed in dye and tumbled in a rotating drum, allowing maximum dye penetration.
Premium select is a term describing hides with a minimal amount of scars or blemishes, usually less than 5% of all hides.
Semi-Aniline Leathers which are a combination of both pigmented and aniline dyed; a very light pigment is added to even out the co lour and increase the durability. Most garments are made with semi-aniline leathers.
References
1) K. Bienkiewicz, Physical Chemistry Of Leathermaking, Krieger Publishing Co., Malabar FL, 1983.
2) Leather Tanning, United States Department of Agriculture - Food and Agricultural Industry Chapter 9, Section 15, June 1997.
3) Terry Scheller, Leather Quality Information, www.atalante.com/leather.html, 2003.
4) All About Leather, www.carolinaleatherworks.com/allableat.html, March 8, 2004.
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